Author: Namratha Gopal
Our skin naturally exfoliates everyday but over the time it may slow down due to various reasons like age, lack of sun protection and eventually may stop altogether. This results in dull, dry and flaky skin. Also results in clogged pores, enlarged pores, bumps, wrinkles, aging and uneven skin tone. For all these skin conditions, a one stop solution would be AHAs and BHAs. Let’s understand more about them in this article. Read onto know more –
What are AHAs and BHAs?
The main purpose of AHAs and BHAs is to exfoliate skin. AHAs and BHAs are types of hydroxy acids. AHA stands for alpha-hydroxy acid and BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acid. These AHAs and BHAs target different needs and skin types and they are extremely good for skin as they exfoliate in a non-abrasive manner that too slowly and gradually which doesn’t harm our skin unlike scrubby and gritty formulas like harsh scrubs and products that we have accustomed for!!!
Everything about AHAs
AHAs are water-soluble acids made from sugar cane and other plant sources which is why they are often called as fruit acids. They come in 5 different naturally occurring organic acids, they include:
- Lactic acid
- Glycolic acid
- Citric acid
- Malic acid
- Tartaric acid
These acids are weak and help in improving the appearance of skin. AHAs mainly target in treating:
- Enlarged pores
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Uneven skin tone
- Age spots
- Hyper-pigmentation
- Dull, dry and rough skin
- Acne
- Scars
- Melasma
- Seborrhea
AHAs are often marked as safe and are for all skin-types (mainly for normal to dry skin). But a little care needs to be taken with these kinds of exfoliants especially those with dry and sensitive skin. They have anti-inflammatory properties and promote blood flow thus helping with natural moisturization, corrects pale dull and dry skin. They are known to promote collagen production thus making it an ideal ingredient for those who want to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Everything about BHAs
BHAs are oil-soluble acids. BHAs can get deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum. The most common form of BHAs is salicylic acid. Different BHAs include:
- Salicylic acid
- Beta-hydroxybutanoic acid
- Tropic acid
- Trethocanic acid
BHAs have anti-acne properties as they are known to fight bacteria and can be used to treat calluses. BHAs mainly targets on treating:
- Makes fine lines and wrinkles less visible
- Improves firmness
- Congested and enlarged pores
- Fades out acne and acne scars
- Evens out skin and texture
As BHAs are oil-soluble, they penetrate deeper into the skin which helps in benefiting the skin with evened out texture, unclogs pores and controls oil which in turn helps in treating acne, whiteheads and blackheads. They are suitable for combination to oily skin.
How to use AHAs and BHAs?
AHAs and BHAs not only come in exfoliants form alone but also can be found in variety of cleansers, toners, scrubs, peels, masks and moisturisers.
As acids are active ingredients, they are highly effective and it’s obvious that anyone gets excited by the results and people tend to overdo it. This causes skin irritation and damages skin barrier since they are quite potent.
Here is how you can use AHAs and BHAs in your skincare routine:
1. Apply your AHAs or BHAs serums after cleanser and toner in your CTM routine. AHAs and BHAs can come in liquid, lotion and in gel forms.
2. Wait for 1 minute after applying AHAs or BHAs and then follow up with the moisturizer.
3. Applying sunscreen and re-applying them is a must as your skin becomes very sensitive when using these chemical exfoliants to protect your skin from the sun damage.
4. If you are a beginner, use AHAs or BHAs thrice in a week. You might want to dilute it with water or rose water for the first few weeks if you have never used them before.
5. Once your skin adapts to it, use it daily in your skincare regimen.
6. There’s another way in using AHAs or BHAs. Once you are done with cleansing in the night, apply AHAs or BHAs on your face and neck and leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes. And wash your face with plain water. Can follow up with moisturizer.
7. If you want to use both AHAs and BHAs in your skincare regimen, try using one in your AM routine and the other one in your PM routine.
8. Once you are adjusted with the usage of AHAs or BHAs, you can mix them with hyaluronic acid for better results. Again the patch test is mandate!!
Disclaimer:
- Patch test is mandatory and checks if it suits you.
- Discard the usage incase if your skin worsens due to the application.
- Use good and most trusted brands of AHAs and BHAs chemical exfoliants.
- Products to be avoided mixing with AHAs and BHAs:
- AHA + Vitamin C
- AHA or BHA + Retinols
- BHA + Benzoyl peroxide